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The Internal Wine War: Apollo vs Dionysus

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On a recent flight back from Perth on Qantas’s very comfortable A330, I decided to watch Stephen Fry’s live show, recorded in Sydney on his most recent tour.

In it, he spoke of the Apollonian and Dionysian philosophies highlighted in Nietzsche’s The Birth of Tragedy. The Apollonian is the form, structure and rational thought of man. The opposite is the Dionysian, where emotion, drunkenness, madness, enthusiasm and ecstasy influence individual will. For those of the vinous mind among us, this may sound familiar. Dionysus is, after all, the god of wine.

Fry then went on to explain, with tongue firmly planted in cheek, that most things in life can be explained using Star Trek. On one side Captain Kirk had his fiercely logical friend Spock (Apollo), offering rational and impassive solutions to the issues he faced. On the other was Bones (Dionysus), full of emotion, passionately and unequivocally opposed and frustrated by the unaffected Spock. Each argued their point and position at every crisis the Enterprise faced and it was up to Kirk (us) to find the balanced solution. Often with scantily clad aliens.

Onto my third glass of Chardonnay, I started thinking about how true this is for wider world of wine and why there is a constant battle between the two philosophies: the analytical and the emotional.

It made me think of the various vinous camps of MWs, MSs, sommeliers, writers, analysts, retailers, importers, wholesalers, reps, winemakers, viticulturists, marketers and PRs, all attempting to bring a sense of reason and logical thought to the Dionysian consumer.

The critic, for example, attempts to analyse and dissect a wine, applying reason to what should be an emotional response. Even people who don’t know wine still know what they like. Our default is Dionysiac. Wine gives us pleasure.

As wine professionals, it’s our job to take on the burden of analysing and dissecting a wine in order to wholly understand it. But we do this so others don’t have to. Even within us, there lies an animalistic desire to just switch off and consume. Far too often the quest for reason, understanding and knowledge is at the expense of our emotions.

While some of the best wine writers are able to pull on our emotional strings (Andrea Frost especially), sadly they are few and far between. If the aim is to engage consumers, it is so important that the language used engages them on an emotional level first.

Winemaking jargon not only intimidates, it isolates. Leave the reasoning to the converted.

We can’t be emotional all the time, and finding the balance between (the Captain Kirk, to use Fry’s metaphor) the emotional and analytical is one of life’s great challenges.

But, keep in mind that there’s no more appropriate place to submit to our inner Dionysus than wine.

 


 

Originally published on Dan’s personal blog in 2014. Still relevant today we would suggest.

A (tongue in cheek) Twelve Days Of Christmas Drinking Guide

By The Rant No Comments

Let’s get one thing straight: I am not a fan of Christmas. I am basically the Grinch. Bah humbug, merry kiss my arse and all that.

I put my ill-feelings towards this season down to a 15-odd-year frontline hospitality career, dealing with one office party after another. For me, Christmas Day was a tiny chance to recover (if I was lucky) before Hospo Nightmare Number Two: New Year’s Eve.

But however you feel about it, now that we’re down to the final 12 Days of Christmas, I say we all need some of “Santa’s Little Helper” to get us through the chaos, overly exuberant cheer (seriously, how are people that damn cheerful?) and, of course, to help you deal with that office douchebag.

Here’s my 12 Days of Christmas drinking guide to get you through the final days of the “festive” season.

December 14th
Melbourne’s hot weather has done a sterling job of distracting you from the fact Christmas is under two weeks away. But don’t fight it; embrace it. Head to Bar Liberty‘s Drinkwell and order a bag of Patrick Sullivan’s Rosé.

It’s pink for goodness’ sake. Not even you can drink it in bad mood.

December 15th
It’s the second-last Friday of work for the year, and your last opportunity to get a few things done before the Christmas party onslaught hits. Celebrate by taking your favourite customer or client out for a light lunch. A bit of chargrilled octopus drizzled with lemon and a glass of foine white woine might do the trick.

Try a little Greek number. It will remind you of where you’d rather be,

December 16th
The penultimate Saturday night before the big day means it’s likely your final chance for a Tinder date. So go on, buy that bottle of Pinot Noir (we recommend the Moondarra) — everyone knows Pinot makes you sexy. But don’t go too crazy on the dollars. Next time you catch up it’ll be 2018 and with that new year will come a “new me” mentality. She’ll either not be drinking, or be ready to swipe on.

December 17th
There is a flurry of activity around town and most responsible people are finishing off their Christmas shopping. But you’re not most people, so instead you avoid the crowds and head to the pub in search of the one thing that will never disappoint you: Beer.

And gee, the Sample Brew you picked is good. Don’t worry about your Christmas shopping for the moment. You’ll get it done during the week when it’s less crowded. For sure you will.

December 18th
There’s a week until Christmas and that friend who holds your group of mates together has decided tonight is the night you all have to catch up for a festive drink. An early-evening picnic has been dictated, so you’re going to need a couple of tinnies. But you don’t want beer — this calls for something stronger. Head to Meatsmith and pick up a couple of Continental Deli’s Martinnies. Genius.

December 19th
The office Christmas party. But before you can get stuck into the overpriced function wine at lunch, the self-appointed Culture Captain of the office has put together a bunch of activities all in the name of team building. Thankfully you snuck in a little hand grenade in the form of a 500ml bottle of Brian to make it bearable.

December 20th
Item number one on today’s agenda: Get an Aperol Spritz immediately, otherwise your hangover from last night’s staff party may literally kill you. This “adult Fanta” is the perfect morning elixir and will go a long way to getting the taste of regret out of your mouth. If anyone questions you in the office, remind them that IT’S JUST A SPRITZ and technically doesn’t count as alcohol.

And, god, why do your hamstrings hurt so much? Oh, that’s right. You got a little excited doing an impassioned rendition of Queen’s ‘Don’t Stop Me Now’ at that underground karaoke bar at 3am. Nice work, champ.

December 21st
In the cold hard light of Thursday, the Christmas party hangover fog is finally retreating. Your memory is beginning to come back and judging by the looks you’re getting around the office, most of theirs have come back too. Oh dear.

Your best move is to grab your credit card and head straight to Blackhearts & Sparrows as it’s time to repent. And what better way to say “Sorry, I got drunk and nude at the staff party” is to buy a bottle of Champagne to share with the team.

December 22nd
Yay! It’s Kris Kringle day at work and Barry from Accounts drew you. Despite you having no idea who he actually is, he saw on Instagram that you liked wine so bought a bottle of Sparkling Shiraz in an attempt to bond and find common ground.

But as a self-respecting ‘foodie’, you know sparkling red is gross and while you’d normally re-gift it to that family member who voted ‘no’, on closer inspection Bazza (as you now call him) actually nailed it and got you a bottle of Chalmers Lambrusco. Nice one.

December 23rd
The year is pretty much over so you and a few other like-minded souls decide on a cheeky mid-afternoon Negroni. The inspired alchemy of Campari, gin and vermouth makes for the perfect tipple to get you through the final couple of days. It’s also a timely reminder that you need to restock the bar at home, so you pick up a bottle each of Four Pillars GinOkar (an Australian-made amaro, aka Campari equivalent), and Maidenii vermouth on your way.

December 24th
Crap. It’s the day before Christmas and you haven’t done any shopping. Again. For the fifth year in a row.

You’re going to need a generous measure of Starward whisky and you’re going to need it immediately, as it’s the only way to deal with the hell that is Chadstone Shopping Centre. Why on earth do you do this every year? I mean seriously, here you are again in the middle of suburbia buying scented candles and satin boxer shorts as it’s all you can think of to buy right now.

Hold tight buddy, it’s always darkest before the dawn.

December 25th
And so the big day arrives. Not with sleigh bells and carols, but with the very loud beeping of your alarm. There is only one way to get through today. Drink Champagne and not in moderation.

It’s going to be a long day and despite your initial grumpiness, you literally cannot drink Champagne and stay that way. It’s impossible. It’s bubbly, vibrant, refreshing and will add a citrus kick to those prawns and oysters you stood an hour in line for at the market yesterday.

Suddenly, everything feels better. You know, maybe this Christmas thing isn’t so bad after all. You’re surrounded by not only your family, but your friends, too.

So make that bottle a magnum. Because magnums show commitment.

The Single Greatest Piece of Business Advice I’ve Ever Received

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The phrase “No one has a monopoly on busy” is one I seem to use a lot. But last week it was thrown right back at me by a friend who was chasing me (again) for information that she needed — information that would be beneficial to me, too (it’s on its way, Angela!). And my response to her?

“I’m busy.”

In my defence, I’ve been working hard trying to get enough done that I’ll be able to take a well-earned break over Christmas, and come back refreshed in the new year.

But even as I used this all-too-familiar excuse, I could feel how poor it sounded. And it got me thinking about what I regard as the single most important piece of business advice I’ve ever received.

Allow me tell you a story.

It was about three years ago, and I was having one of those weeks. Everything was just a bit too much. So what did I do? Grabbed a glass of wine (or six) with my wine legend mate Andrea Frost, and tried to complain the stress away.

I dumped all of my woes, frustrations, doubts, challenges, and general stresses surrounding my (then) fairly new business right onto her. Once I was done, Andrea turned to me and said:

“Dan. You need to remember, no one asked you to do this.”

I was floored. Silenced. I’d just been dealt a proverbial tsunami of truth.

No one asked me to run one wine event (let alone multiple events in various cities and countries) in the same way no one asked you to plant grapes and make wine. Or open that shop or start that brand or other business. The world will go on quite well without any of us.

We are the only people who decided to do this thing. So it’s up to me to take responsibility for mine and own it, and for you to own yours.

Don’t get me wrong — I get it. Business is a tough, relentless, all-consuming beast. It can be lonely and sometimes all you want to do is scream, “What the FUCK am I doing this for?!”

But we both know we wouldn’t have it any other way because we bloody love what we do. And if you don’t love what you do, then stop doing it right now.

This advice was, for me, truly humbling and brought me back into the present reality. Much like the ancient Roman generals who ordered slaves to stand behind them after a victorious battle and whisper repeatedly, “You are still mortal.”

We are all busy.

We’re all working our butts off trying to get things done and the struggle is very real. But remember, in those moments of small business panic, breathe and whisper the words “No one asked me to do this.” Make it your mantra. Then, regroup and get on with it.

No one has a monopoly on busy. Even at this time of year.

UNDER THE ‘NEW’ WINE MEDIA’S INFLUENCE.

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A few weeks ago, Wine Communicators of Australia held a follow-up to their successful Under the Influence: Who really holds sway in wine buying decisions? seminar.

The session was moderated by the veritable Angie Bradbury (Dig & Fish) and panelled by wine legend Clare Burder, Max Allen (representing what he called the “heritage media”), Johnno Harris from Mitchell Harris Wines and Paul Ghaie of Blackhearts & Sparrows.

From Max’s always erudite column to Clare’s excellent wine (and drinks) courses and Blackhearts & Sparrows wonderful stores, all regularly come into contact with a broad range of wine drinkers.

The discussion was fascinating. The conversation flowed from what people are drinking right now to how they heard about it. The panels’ experience was essential in learning more about how people consume both wine and wine media.

Ultimately, it comes down to the wine drinker.

I have a few ideas surrounding this. We (REVEL) interact and engage with a heck of a lot of wine drinkers at our events, so when it was my turn to speak I asked the room to name their top three Instagram wine influencers in Australia. The room was effectively silent, highlighting the exact point I was trying to make: There is no ‘one’ influence in wine, but multiple. And this is a bloody good thing.

If you like art, you don’t follow just one artist. If you like music, you don’t just follow just one band.

You follow all related people and personalities that surround the category. Whether it be commentators, radio stations, DJs, record stores, festivals, platforms, digital publications, Apps, and, perhaps most importantly, you follow what your friends are listening to, and share it.

Wine is no different.

So while some may see a frustrating market fragmentation, I see multiple opportunities. There is an incredible opportunity out there for wine brands to explore and find their own niche and engage with their community on a variety of levels and platforms. Bloody cool, huh!

Never before have people been more engaged when it comes to what they imbibe, and they want to learn and experience it the same way they consume it: socially.

Wine is social. You open a bottle of wine to share with friends, so why should it be any different when it comes to the way people communicate and learn about it?

It is why I truly believe people* are the new wine media.

So if you’re a wine brand, drop what you’re doing and focus your attention on the people who actually drink your wine. And fast.

People don’t just follow one writer, maker, sommelier, retailer or event, they follow multiple. They follow their friends, their community, wine bars, restaurants, events, colleagues, waiters or anyone else they choose.

Why? Because it’s a part of their daily lives. Could you really ask for more?

It is not to say critical assessment, education or in-depth articles of wine are irrelevant, they’re not. Yet they should be seen as one of many multiple niches speaking to its own (primarily wine) audience. An audience that only represents 5-8% of the wine-drinking public. So try not to get too frustrated when your post about “the complex matrix of thiols” or “microbial yeast selections in the winery” doesn’t get much reach.

The good news is you already have an audience.

It’s now just a matter of how you communicate and engage with it.

*I deliberately say ‘people’ here and not ‘consumers’. Cows consume. People drink and talk and ask questions and have fun. They are the majority in wine, damn it, so please stop talking about them like they’re some sort of weird frustrating anomaly. Talk to them. They respond.